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Slopers and crimps on a hangboard

Slopers just for the bouldering gym? Or also for climbing gym?

Slopers for bouldering gym and crimps for climbing gym?

Often people in my gym tell me that slopers are for bouldering gym and that crimps are for climbing gym. Is true or not?
I think it depends on the routesetters and climbing in rock near where your routesetters train.

Slopers and crimps on a hangboard

 

I give you an example:
Here in Poland we have the Jura, which looks very much like Frankenjura in Germany. So we can talk about pockets and crimps area.

Frankenjura

Frankenjura

It is true that it can be seen in the routesetting of some Polish routesetters and therefore in the climbing gym where you can find lot’s of Pockets or crimps. But some of these routesetters do not rope and only bouldering, so set with a lot of slopers.

Rzędkowickie (Polish Jura)

Rzędkowickie (Polish Jura)

It is also true that, having a big moove on a crimp in bouldering gym is not agreable as it is not too agreable to have lots of big moove on slopers when are doing climbing rope.

It is good in your gym to find routesetters who have a preference but you have to try to vary the type of routesetting.

Slopers in climbing gym

Slopers in climbing gym

It’s even better if they can work together where everyone can test the problem or the way of the other.

This allows to have a critical look at the setting and therefore to offer a higher quality routesetting.

It is true that there are many more slopers in the bouldering and more crimps in the climbing rope. But do not forget that there are also crimps in the bouldering and slopers in the climbing rope.

Crimp in bouldering gym

Crimp in bouldering gym

So the best is, most often, if you can set with friends (with a good level will be better) and ask them their opinion. This will allow climbers who will climb (whether in a bouldering gym or a climbing gym) to enjoy the most of the climbing grips that the room has to offer to them.

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